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 The Baltics
 July 12'th to july 25'th 2008
 Tallinn

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Monday, July 21’St

I’m leaving Riga at 10 am with Eurlines to Tallinn, where I arrive a little past 2 pm.

Then things start to go wrong! First of all the busterminal is not at the spot where I thought it would be – it’s much further away from the city-center than expected. This means that I get lost on my walk to the hotel, which honestly shouldn’t have been a walk, but a taxi-ride. It takes 1˝ hour of walking before I find my hotel in Tallins Old Town called Meriton Old Town. Then it’s certainly time for a break.

View across Tallinn

Streets of Tallinn

Later my first walk in Tallinn Old Town. There are lots of tourists here. Most of them are from Finland and Sweden. And there are lots of old houses, churches, museums, hotels, restaurants and cobble-stoned roads. And it is unbelievable clean everywhere. The local life takes place outside Old Town, which is more like a tourist-settlement. So I head outside for dinner. A large beer is now 3 €, so things are going the wrong way.

Tuesday, July 22’Nd

This is the great sightseeing-day in Old Tallinn. First stop is just outside my dooe. It’s the St. Olaus Church with a 139 m. high tower. It was built in the 15’Th century, and is supposed to be the highest building in the world at that time (how would anyone know??). KGB used to use it as a good place for surveillance.

Further on along the city-wall in Tallinn, and a monument for the ship Estonia.

Then it’s more church. First it’s the Holy Spirit Church from the 13’Th century. Outside there’s a very old clock. Then it’s the Peter and Paul Church. It’s closed today. But the Dominican monestary next to it is not. You have to make your own “ticket” by hammering a round metal-thing with a huge hammer. It’s a little expensive to get in, but it’s valid for the rest of your lifetime, so it’s kind of OK. The monestary was built in 1246 and was used by Scandinavian munks, which was sent here to chritianite the estonians.

Probably from the Olau church
 

 

The Dominican Monestary

Further on along the city-wall and another church. It’s the huge and ugly Jaani Church. Then on to the tower with the weird name “Kiek in de Kök”, which means something like “Look into kitchen”, named so because you could see into the kitchens of the nearby houses. There’s a small arms-museum in the tower.

I head back to the hotel before trip 2 of the day. This takes me to Upper Tallinn or Toompea as it is called. There’s a fantastic beautiful Russian church called Alexander Nevsky, with their domes looking like onions. Inside there are lot’s of icons, but as it is in Russian churches – not a chair og bench within sight. Everything is done standing.

Just opposite is Toompea Castle. It’s huge and there are real chess-towers in the corners, but the pink colour is not my idea of colours for a castle. A little away is the Dom – the largest church in Tallinn. From Toompea you also have some of the best views across Old Tallinn and its surroundings.

On the way downhill I pass the old Danish Kings yard. They’ve got a spot like this because rumours say that the Danish nationalflag fell from the sky in Estonia on the 15’Th of July in 1219.

I’ve had enough sightseeing for this day. Only dinner and relaxing is left for the rest of the day.

Alexander Nevsky
 

Wednesday, July 23’Rd

Charming Paldiski

The trip of the day is not anything recommended by the tourist-office. I am heading for the city of Paldiski. It’s about an hour by train from Tallinn.

Paldiski was an important harbour for the navy back in the soviet-days. So they built this ugly town with plenty of bunkers and other military facilities.

Some of it has been preserved, so together with the ugly buildings that used to house the military employees, some petro-chemical industry and a harbour now used for car-impor, it doesn’t make a lot of good photos for the tourist-brochures. But I find it exiting and it’s also a part of reality. And after all there’s also a small beach where kids are having a good time bathing in the dirty water of the Baltic Sea – and there’s the loveliest train-station I have ever seen. It’s as much a contrast to the city that anything could be. I spend a few hours out here, where there are only 2 other tourists for the day, before heading back on the train to Tallinn.

The rest of the day is spent on nothing special.

Chimneys at the railway station in Paldiski

Thursday, July 24’Th

View of the roof of the Maritime Museum
 

Anoher day in beautiful Old Tallinn

First visit is to a museum just around the corner. It’s The Maritim Museum, which is housed in a tower called Fat Margaret. There are a lot of things in the museum about the sailing-history of Tallinn, and from the top there’s a fine view across the harbour and all the cruise-ships down there.

Next I head for the harbour. Due to terrorist-fright you are not allowed to walk around the harbour, but from the ferry’s arrival-hall you can see some huge ships around. A big one from Helsinki has just arrived, and is loading off. Most of the cruise-ships seem to be German.

Back to Old Tallinn and a visit to a tourist-trap called Eppingi Turn. It’s also a part of the city-wall, but really contains absolutely nothing.

Lunch is at an Ukranian restaurant. Ukranian sausages are not recommended.

After a break at the hotel I head out again. I head for the tourist-spot no.1 in Vilnius, the City-Hall Square. It’s packed with tourist and restaurants, but I’m here to see the City Hall. It was built between 1371 and 1404, so it’s both old and very fine. On the room you will find the small statue of Vana Toomas – Old Thomas – as a symbolic guard for Tallinn. He also doubles as a weathercock.

From the top of the City Hall
 

St. Nicholas church

Next stop is St. Nicholas Church from the 13-th century. It was destroyed by Russian bombs during WW2, but is now restored. Inside it contains some of the most valuable religious paintings from the Middle Age. Among them is the famous painting of “Dance Makabre” by Berndt Notke from the 15-th century.

After this I walk aimlessly around the southern parts of Old Tallinn, before I’ve had it for this day.

Friday, July 25’Th

I’ve made a mistake on this trip, and that is going back in the evening. This means that the rest of the day is just for killing – and it’s a little annoying.

So I kill this hot summerday in Tallinn by visiting another stupid museum built into the wall, then visiting the city-museum, which is rather exiting, a good lunch and finally a visit to the photographic museum of Tallinn. Finally it’s time to head back to the hotel and get a taxi to the airport.

The check-in is fast, so there are another few hours to kill in the airport before leaving with Estonian Air at 6.10 pm. The trip to Copenhagen takes 1˝ hour, so including time-difference I arrive at 6.40. The train leaves at 7.40, and I’m back in Aarhus slightly before midnight.

Hard to keep up the good spirit when selling christmas-toys in 30 degrees celsius

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